Skin Care Hub

If you want to use AHA products, follow these safety tips:

• Always protect your skin before going out during the day. Use a sunscreen with a SPF (sun protection factor) of at least 15. Wear a hat with a brim. Cover up with lightweight, loose-fitting, long-sleeved shirts, and pants.
• Buy products with good label information:
• a list of ingredients to see which AHA or other chemical acids are in the product
• the name and address of the maker
• a statement about the product’s AHA and pH levels

The first two have to be on the label. The third is one is by choice. You can call or write the maker to find about a product’s AHA and pH levels.

• Buy only products with an AHA level of 10 percent or less and a pH of 3.5 or more.
• Test a small area of skin to see if it is sensitive to any AHA product before using a lot of it.
• Stop using the product right away if you have a reaction, such as stinging, redness, or bleeding.
• Talk with your doctor or dermatologist (a doctor that treats skin problems) if you have a problem.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) come from fruit and milk sugars. They are found in many creams and lotions. Many people buy products with AHAs, because they claim to reduce wrinkles, spots, sun-damaged skin, and other signs of aging. Some studies suggest they may work.

But are these products safe? FDA has received reports of reactions in people using AHA products. Their complaints include:

• severe redness
• swelling (especially in the area of the eyes)
• burning
• blistering
• bleeding
• rash
• itching
• skin discoloration

AHAs may also increase your skin’s risk of sunburn.

To find out if a product contains an AHA, look on the list of ingredients. By law, all cosmetics have ingredients on their outer label. AHAs may be called other names, like glycolic acid and lactic acid.

Source: Office on Women’s Health in the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services.

Considering the questionable safety status, FDA and dermatologists advise consumers who use AHA products to follow these precautions:

• Always protect your skin before going out during the day. Use a sunscreen product with an SPF (Sun Protection Factor) of at least 15. Wear a hat with a brim of at least 4 inches (about 10 centimeters). Cover up with lightweight, loose-fitting, long-sleeved shirts and pants.
• Buy products with adequate label information: for example, a list of ingredients to see which AHA or other chemical acids are in the product; the name and address of the manufacturer or distributor, which can serve as the contact if a problem or question arises; and a statement about the product’s AHA concentration and pH level. The first two pieces of information are mandatory; the third is optional. Consumers can call or write the manufacturer, however, to get information about a product’s AHA concentration and pH level.
• Buy only products that comply with the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel’s 1997 recommendations–that is, products with an AHA concentration of 10 percent or less and a pH of 3.5 or greater.
• Do a skin-sensitivity test on a patch of skin if you are a first-time user of any AHA product or are using a different brand or a product with a different concentration or pH than you are used to.
• Stop using the product immediately if you experience adverse reactions. Signs of adverse reactions include stinging, redness, itching, burning, pain, and bleeding or change in sun sensitivity. Even mild irritation is a sign that the product is causing damage, FDA’s Bailey says, despite what the manufacturer may indicate on the product label. “Cosmetics shouldn’t sting or cause irritation,” he says.

If you have an adverse reaction, see a dermatologist. A dermatologist can tell you whether an adverse reaction is from the product or is an indication of an underlying disease, such as skin cancer. Dermatologists also can recommend appropriate skin-care products, and they will report your case, keeping your name confidential, to FDA’s adverse reaction monitoring program.

Source: FDA’s Office of Cosmetics and Colors

An additional concern arose as FDA prepared its 1996 report on AHA safety: Some people who had reported adverse reactions cited increased sun sensitivity. In addition, one industry-sponsored study found that participants whose skin was exposed to 4 percent glycolic acid twice daily for 12 weeks developed minimal skin redness with 13 percent less ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure than normal. Three participants developed minimal redness with 50 percent less UV exposure than normal.

Another study that looked at the effects of glycolic acid on production of sunburn cells (markers for UV-induced skin damage) found that people who received the AHA product in the presence of UV radiation experienced twice the cell damage in areas where the AHA had been applied than those who were treated with the non-AHA product.

FDA’s concern is that people who are sensitive to sunlight may be particularly susceptible to UV rays, which can damage the skin and, over a long period, can cause skin cancer.

In 1997, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel–the cosmetic industry’s self-regulatory body for reviewing and addressing safety of cosmetic ingredients–concluded that the AHA’s glycolic acid and lactic acid and their related chemical compounds are safe for use in products intended for consumer use when:

• the AHA concentration is 10 percent or less
• the final product has a pH of 3.5 or greater (lower numbers indicate greater acidity)
• the final product is formulated in such a way that it protects the skin from increased sun sensitivity or its package directions tell consumers to use sunscreen products.

For AHA products used by trained cosmetologists, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel concluded that formulations of glycolic acid and lactic acid at concentrations of 30 percent or less and a pH of 3.0 or greater intended for only “brief” use at one time followed by thorough rinsing and daily use of sun protection are safe.

The panel’s conclusions actually serve as guidelines for cosmetic manufacturers, Bailey says. “This means that each manufacturer of an AHA product should conduct appropriate testing on their products to measure whether or not the product increases the sensitivity of the user to UV radiation and, if so, should add sun protection to their product and warn consumers to take extra steps to protect themselves at all times.”

Meanwhile, FDA continues to study AHA safety. Later this year, scientists with the National Toxicology Program and FDA will use hairless mice to study the effect of AHAs on the risk of cancer associated with sunlight and UV radiation. The study will run for about three years.

Depending on the outcome of FDA’s investigation, Bailey says, the agency may or may not take action against AHA products. “The absence of action by FDA to date doesn’t mean that there won’t be any in the future.”

Source: U. S. Food and Drug Administration