Alpha Hydroxy Acids are Everywhere
AHA cosmetics are believed to have derived from the “chemical peels” that dermatologists and plastic surgeons have used for years. The peels, typically trichloroacetic acid, phenol, resorcinol, and salicylic acid, help remove undesirable signs of skin aging, such as discoloration, roughness and wrinkling. The chemicals cause the skin to lose its outer layer, or peel off, revealing a fresher-looking layer of skin. Known as chemical exfoliation, the procedure is done in doctors’ offices so that doctors can control the process and prevent deep skin burns from the highly acidic solutions.
Cosmetic manufacturers began to market similar but milder versions of these chemical peels containing AHAs for salon and at-home use around 1989. They quickly caught on, and by 1992, mass marketing had begun. Today, says Lisa Berger, a cosmetic sales manager for a Hecht Co. department store in Washington, D.C., “every [cosmetic company] has AHA products. There used to be only three product lines; now there are 20.”
The AHAs used most often in cosmetics are glycolic acid and lactic acid, although there are others, and many are used in combination. Increasingly, says Zoe Draelos, M.D., a dermatologist in High Point, N.C., manufacturers are using poly-AHAs, which have larger molecules, and ingredients such as salicylic acid. According to Draelos, who consults for several large U.S. cosmetic companies, these products may produce less skin irritation.
Typically, AHA products sold to consumers have an AHA concentration of 10 percent or less. The concentration of AHA products used by trained cosmetologists may run between 20 and 30 percent, while those used by doctors can range from 50 to 70 percent.
Though sold to consumers mainly in face and body creams and lotions, AHAs also can be found to a lesser degree in other cosmetics, such as shampoos and cuticle softeners. Available everywhere, from discount pharmacies to fine department stores, the products typically range in price from a few dollars to as much as $60 a bottle.
Source: U. S. Food and Drug Administration